Les Salicaires
We’ve found ourselves just east of our adopted home of Fond Cyprès in Corbières, perched on the edge of Côtes Catalanes in the idyllic commune of Canet-en-Roussillon. We’re just outside of town, which sits starkly on the Mediterranean coastline. The salty sea air still reaches far enough to brush our cheeks, though we’re about ten minutes from the shore. Wide swaths of vines line small paved roads, punctuated by wildflowers and, every so often, a palm tree or two. Twenty hectares of this sprawling beauty belong to the young Vincent Lafage and his family, though Vincent has selected a scant two hectares for his own purposes.
Walking into Vincent’s chai immediately piques our curiosity. Several tanks line the walls, filled with experiments that Vincent clearly can’t wait to pour for us. In one corner is a collection of fishing poles, prompting Vincent to wax poetic about his love of la pêche (he hopes to catch some bluefin tuna soon). When the subject turns to his wines, he lights up with a similar wholesome enthusiasm as he pulls bottle after bottle adorned with labels illustrated by a friend in Brussels (one of which stars his dog Marcel, who’s currently recovering from an ambitious jump).
Make no mistake—while Vincent’s youthful energy and demeanor are alone enough to lure you in, the fruits of his labor are apparent. These are the product of a winemaker well into his career, with years of expertise woven into wines of depth, freshness and elegance. Vincent’s farming, too, is top notch; just ask Alice Bouvot of Domaine de l‘Octavin and mentor Patrick Bouju, who clamor year after year for some of his fruit.
The more we taste, vintage-to-vintage, the more impressed we find ourselves. Vincent is a budding master, no doubt, and his wines have already established themselves in and among the new guard of Roussillon. Just ask his fellow winemakers.